In the same issue of Decanter in which Morris complains about the lack of "consistency in Central Otago" there is a short interview with Aubert de Villaine from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (the fellow who was sold such good corks for use in the 2004 Romanée Saint-Vivant). Also the maker of the best wines in Burgundy and probably the world.
I quote Aubert:
"I have tasted very good Pinots from outside Burgundy. There are exceptions, but the ones I found the best were not real Burgundian, but had the qualities of terroir. You know immediately when you are dealing with a varietal wine of a terroir wine. There is a sort of soul, something that brings together everything in the wine around it, a kind of personality."
Aubert has another few words of wisdom that Morris should reflect on:
"Pinot Noir doesn't really have a taste. On its own, it has no interest. It is only interesting if married to terroir. It's the purity that makes it so great." and
"You have to see Pinot Noir as a variety not a wine. I do not make Pinot Noir. I make Burgundy. Pinot Noir is an element of my production."
In Central Otago we are trying to achieve a similar vision. We are trying to make Central Otago, and more precisely, we are trying to make Anthem, Felton Road, Chard Farm etc. How does square with uniformity of expression?
